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Master Sommelier

About a week ago, I traveled to DC to take my first step towards becoming a Master Sommelier. You may ask yourself: "Self," you ask, "what the heck is a sommelier and how the heck does one become a master?" Simply put, a sommelier (pronounced soh-mill-YAY) is a wine steward for a restaurant. They manage the entire beverage program, manage the floor during business hours, and make recommendations to guests about food and beverage pairings. So how does one become a master, and what's the point?

The Master Sommelier title is bestowed by The Court of Master Sommeliers, an international organization that tests and certifies individuals at four different levels to signify their level of qualification for being a sommelier (a.k.a. how big of a wine geek someone is). The first level (which I passed this last weekend) is titled Introductory. This is a whirlwind tour of the major wine producing regions in the world, followed by a 70 question multiple choice test. They help you along the way, and if you can answer questions such as "Which of the following is known for its sweet wine production: A)Sancerre, B)Montbazillac, C)Barsac, or D)Listrac?" You can pass just fine. (The answer, by the way, is Barsac, which is situated in Bordeaux just north of Sauternes). Only a 60% is required to pass, and supposedly 95% of people who attempt this level succeed.

From introductory, one passes the certified exam (which comprises a service and blind tasting test) and works towards advanced (which, as the name implies, requires a much more advanced level of knowledge). Both of these are also 60% to pass, but are far more in depth. Upon completion of the advanced certification, one must wait a year and be invited to attempt the master exam.

The Master Sommelier exam requires an inane amount of knowledge coupled with a nearly flawless palate to assess 6 wines blind. Oh yeah, and there's a huge service component where you have to serve other master sommeliers. Also, the benchmark is bumped up from 60% to 75% at this level. Very few people succeed. To date, there are only 158 people in the world who hold this title. For the foodservice professional, this is like climbing Mount Everest.

And so, I have resigned myself to years of studying and tasting with the hope that someday I can be one of these select few. Why? I've found my niche in life, and it happens to be wine, so why not learn everything there is to learn. I welcome you to journey with me along the way.

Review: Hendrick's Gin

According to Hendrick's Gin, their product is preferred by 1 out of 1000 gin drinkers. If this is true, than I am one in a thousand. While I assert that this is simply a clever marketing ploy aimed at exclusivity, I will admit that I could see how the typical gin drinker would find Hendrick's somewhat offputting. For starters, it is a rose petal and cucumber infused gin which, while it still possesses the juniper aroma characteristic to traditional gins, presents a stark contrast to such London Dry offerings such as Beefeater and Bombay. Yet, the smoothness and complexity that Hendrick's brings to the table is compelling and convincing. Try it with house-made tonic (recipe follows) or simply straight up, shaken, with a garnish of cucumber. Either way, you wont be disappointed.

Overall Rating: 96

Tonic Water (Recipe courtesy of The Wild Drink)

2 teaspoons of ground Cinchona Bark
Zest of 1 pink grapefruit
500g sugar
1 litre water
1/2 teaspoon citric acid

Add everything except the sugar to a pan. Bring to the boil then cover and simmer for 20mins, stirring regularly to remove lumps. After 20mins strain the hot liquid through a tea towel into a large container such as an ice cream tub, do it whilst it’s still hot and it strains faster. You should be left with a gunky brown mess all over the tea towel and a brown coloured liquid in the tub. Next add all the sugar to the liquid whilst it’s still hot and stir it in until the syrup becomes translucent.

Review: Provenance Merlot 2004

While it is easy to see the variety of blockbuster cabs coming out of Napa, one must look a little harder to find great examples of other varietals. In the case of Merlot, I find that it can be hit or miss. It seems to me that many winemakers either try too hard to make a merlot that is like a cab, or they care too much about their cabs and forget about their merlots.

Now what if a winery were to concentrate on taking what makes a merlot great and attempt to produce a stellar example from that grape? Provenance's near stellar 2004 offering achieves just that. At 100% merlot, it pours a deep, lush purple that fills the glass. The aromas are so intense that they hit the nose before even bringing the glass towards you. When you do, you are treated to a rich aroma of chocolate, licorice, strawberries, cherries and creamy vanilla. On the palate, you are further rewarded with a smooth, velvety wine that boasts a balanced smoothness with a complex richness. Mocha, chocolate covered strawberries and cherries are complemented by plum and blackberry notes. While the finish doesn't last forever and the characteristic lack of noticeable tannins may lead some to feel this wine is weak, it is an immediately enjoyable, velvety smooth offering that would pair well with roasted pork, chicken, or lamb, or with grilled vegetables.

Overall Rating: 94

The American Dream

It was a warm fall day in 2006. My companions and I had been escorted to a set of tables in a clearing near what appeared to be a country cottage. The sun beat down beautifully as the sounds of the Napa river streamed briskly past us. We sat waiting for lunch, shaded by a grove of trees and welcoming the breeze that was picking up through the valley. The excitement of the harvest seemed to breath and pulsate from person to person. At my table, we began to enjoy a selection of sandwiches and salads that had been prepared for us earlier by the vineyard's chef.

My hosts, a man in his 60's, and his wife began to tell us the story of how they founded the winery nearly thirty years ago. He had been a mechanic in San Francisco, and on the weekends, he would drive the hour drive up into Napa to work on the vines that he had purchased there. At that time, the majority of the valley was used for growing crops such as fruits (plums and prunes being very popular) and vegetables. Yet, there were pioneers who would recognize the potential for the area; it was as if they could see how perfect this Eden would be, how renowned it would become. My host continued for many years to enjoy his hobby on the weekends, traveling back and forth between Napa and San Francisco, before finally settling into the full-time wine business he had started.

My hosts and dining companions on this sunny afternoon were non-other than Jack and Dolores Cakebread of Cakebread Cellars. While their wines now connote prestige and world-renowned quality (not to mention a rather hefty price tag), the people behind the wine were sincere, down to earth people who cared about genuine hospitality and something good to eat and drink. As I sat having lunch with them, I couldn't help but think of what an honor it was. It isn't every day that you have lunch with legends. Yet, these perceived legends were more concerned with talking about the local farmers market than global wine economics. They talked about their family and how each of them play a part bringing the wines to fruition. To them, this was their home. This Eden was their paradise found.

Over a year later, I look back fondly on that afternoon. Having lived in Napa Valley for four months prior to this lunch, I learned to appreciate the two very different sides of Napa Valley: what Napa is, and what Napa is perceived to be. The Cakebreads represent what Napa is at its core: a home to farmers and visionaries pursuing the American Dream.

Yes, there are many self made millionaires who simply bought a piece of the action. And yes, Napa is the second largest tourist destination in CA next to Disneyland. But these millionaires and jet-set tourists will probably never understand the foundations and spirit that this valley's reputation was built upon. Where were they when Napa was known for it's prunes rather than it's pinots. It is the Mondavis, the Grgichs, and the Cakebreads that made Napa what it is today.

Jack and Dolores: Cheers to the American Dream.

Review: Chateau Bonnet Entre-Deux-Mers 2006

French for “Between Two Seas,” the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux lies between the Dardogne and the Garonne rivers just south of St. Emilion and east of the city of Bordeaux. Although the label represents a grand chateaux, much of the Entre-Deux-Mers region is comprised of rolling countryside and farmland. By law, the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation is strictly for the production of white wines. Like many Bordeaux whites, this wine represents a blend of several varietals; in this case, 50% sauvignon blanc, 40% semillon, and 10% muscadelle. It pours a clear yellow/green color with a hint of copper at the rim. On the nose, there isn’t a huge amount going on, however the notes of gooseberry, hay, floral tones and lime zest present a decent offering. The palate, however, leaves more to be desired. This is a fairly fat wine (most likely attributed to the 40% semillion) that doesn’t go too far. The acidity is there, but it is almost drowned by the breadth of the oak and vanilla. Ultimately, the wine gives away the crispness and freshness of the varietals in favor of a rich fatness that sits on the palate until it falls away without giving much enjoyment on the tongue. However, this is still an entirely drinkable, albeit simple, white wine. And for $9.99 a bottle, it is also a far better value than many wines at its price point. Try it with roasted poultry, game-foul, and fattier fish such as salmon or tuna.

Overall rating: 74

Review: Chateau Le Coteau 2003

The left bank of the Gironde river is home to the famed Haut-Medoc region of Bordeaux. It is here that some of the world’s most exemplary red wines are produced. Unfortunately, it is also home to some of the most expensive. As such, it can be somewhat difficult to find a truly great wine. Unfortunately, the Chateau Le Coteau is not one of these wines. However, it is a certainly enjoyable and very intricate offering from the Margaux appellation. Along with Pauillac, Saint-Julien, and Saint-Estephe, Margaux represents one of the major four communes in the Haut-Medoc. Here, the “left bank” style of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon blends preside (“right bank” style refers to a blend predominantly consisting of Merlot). Margaux, however, represents the more delicate and intricate of the communes. This wine is a testament to that. It pours a fairly opaque garnet/ruby color with slightly tawny edges. On the nose, a wonderful array of scents arise, including cherries, green pepper, violets, mocha, oak, vanilla, cured meats and tobacco/cigar box. On the tongue, the drinker can enjoy a fair amount of bell pepper and cassis from the cabernet, paired with strawberries and cherries from the merlot. All of this if accompanied by a not-so-subtle presence of oak that could use several more years in the bottle to mellow out. It isn’t a huge jammy mouth feel, but it still stands up well. The finish is intricate, albeit short, and the complexity warrants a second glass. Try it with the classic pairing of roasted lamb, or be bold and go for some game meats such as hare and boar.

Overall Rating: 87